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Masterpieces of the MNAC: the Romanesque, Gothic and Modern collections

MNAC (Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya) - Palau Nacional

Catherine Howley 2 Comments

Hello! I’m Catherine, one of the guides at Runner Bean Tours in Barcelona. With a background in History of Art and Museum Studies, I often get asked for museum recommendations when leading tours. With over 50 to suggest, from chocolate to archaeology to shoes, Barcelona has a museum to suit any interest! But when asked for my own personal choice, I can’t help advise a trip to the MNAC (Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya), for several reasons.

Situated in Montjüic, the museum overlooks some of the most stunning views of the city. The building itself is an architectural treat (a huge Italian-style palace built for the 1929 International Exhibition) and the collection, boasting over 1,000 years of art, is a must for those interested in Catalonia’s Art history. But with such a huge amount of artwork on display, the museum can be overwhelming. So what I’d like to do is talk through my favourite pieces some of which you should be able to place historically after taking my tours.

INDEX

  • The Romanesque collection
    • “Apse of Sant Climent de Taull” by the Master of Taull (c. 1123)
  • The Gothic collection
    • The mural paintings of the Conquest of Majorca (1285-1290)
  • The Modern Art collection
    • “Llar de foc” by Lluis Domènech i Montaner (1907)
    • “The Cathedral of the Poor” by Joaquim Mir (1898)
    • Double sofa designed for Casa Batlló by Antoni Gaudí (1904-1906)
  • Practical information
    • Opening Times:
    • Prices:
    • How to get there:

The Romanesque collection

The Romanesque collection is the most important of its kind in the entire world. This is due to a huge effort made in the 19th and 20th centuries to preserve and promote Art located in the Romanesque churches of the region. Today, these pieces are found in the museum in the form of colourful frescoes, detailed wood panels, and intricate stone carvings. Most of the works date from the 11th and 12th centuries, reflecting the techniques and expertise of artists during the early history of Catalonia.

“Apse of Sant Climent de Taull” by the Master of Taull (c. 1123)

"Apse of Sant Climent de Taull" by the Master of Taull
“Apse of Sant Climent de Taull” by the Master of Taull

This is one of the most outstanding examples of the exhibit. Considered the greatest mural painter in the 12th century and one of the most important Romanesque painters in Europe, this mural by the Master of Taull was originally located in the Church of Sant Climent de Taull at the Vall de Boí in the Catalan Pyrenees. Removed and transported to Barcelona between 1919 and 1923, the fresco is admired for its pictorial strength and use of colour and has inspired reknowned artists such as Picasso and Francis Picabia. The painting has been transferred onto a replica of its original apse, giving you a great sense of how it appeared centuries ago in its original location.

The Gothic collection

Artwork from the 13th to the 15th centuries can be discovered in the Gothic section. As we discover on our Gothic Quarter free walking tour, this was a peak time in Catalan history. The union with the Crown of Aragon and the conquest of a great part of the Mediterranean, results in a body of work, not only from Catalonia, but other territories that were once part of the Crown of Aragon, such as Valencia and Majorca.

The mural paintings of the Conquest of Majorca (1285-1290)

The mural paintings of the Conquest of Majorca
The mural paintings of the Conquest of Majorca

Not to be missed! These mural paintings were discovered in 1961 during the restoration of Palau Aguilar, part of a palace which today makes up the city’s Picasso Museum. They are one of the most important examples of Catalan linear gothic painting and show the conquest of Majorca by King James I, “the conqueror”, in 1229 (watch out for the statue of the king on the façade of the City Hall during our Old City tour). Although the paintings are damaged, the sequence of the conquest can be read from left to right, divided between three panels, showing the glory of the Catalan army and the downfall of the Moors in battle.

The Modern Art collection

Another fantastic part of the MNAC is the Modern Art section. The artwork dates from the 19th and 20th centuries and, once again, reflects a great period in the history of Catalonia. The dawn of the industrial revolution sparked a creative revolution, and those of you who have joined us on the Gaudí free tour will really enjoy this part of the museum. The Modernisme collection gives you a wonderful insight into what his contemporaries were creating at the time.

“Llar de foc” by Lluis Domènech i Montaner (1907)

Chimney place by Domènech i Montaner
Chimney place by Domènech i Montaner

This chimney place from the modernist architect of Casa Lleó Morera (one of the houses on the Block of Discord) gives you a sense of the luxury that the nouveau riche enjoyed behind closed doors in 19th century Barcelona.

“The Cathedral of the Poor” by Joaquim Mir (1898)

"The Cathedral of the Poor" by Joaquim Mir
“The Cathedral of the Poor” by Joaquim Mir

A beautiful work, painted in plein air, shows a scene representing the working class of a local neighbourhood. The Sagrada Familia, in its very early stages, provides the background in the work. A way to contrast how far the church has come along from what we visit today!

Double sofa designed for Casa Batlló by Antoni Gaudí (1904-1906)

Gaudí's double sofa for Casa Batlló
Gaudí’s double sofa for Casa Batlló

And of course, not to forget Gaudí! This is an example of the architect’s ability in interior design. The sofa, like Casa Batlló itself, strays from the use of straight lines and right angles. The result is corner-less furniture that combines comfort with great design.

Practical information

The entrance  to the MNAC allows you two visits to the museum as, with such a vast collection, recommended visiting time can be up to and beyond 3 hours. I wouldn’t say there is an ideal time to see the works. However, if you manage to schedule your visit to a Saturday evening, you’re in luck! The museum is free after 3pm on Saturdays and it tends to be a more livelier time to check out the collection. And to top it off, the Magic Fountain begins at twilight giving you enough time to grab a refreshment on the terrace and watch the sun set over the city while waiting for the show to commence. A perfect way to round up your experience at the MNAC. Enjoy your visit!

Opening Times:

  • Closed Mondays
  • Tuesdays to Saturdays: 10am to 6pm (until 8pm during Summer months)
  • Sundays and public holidays: 10am to 3pm

Prices:

  • Adults € 12 (valid for two days)
  • Concessions get 30% discount
  • Free for children under 16
  • Admission is also free every Saturday after 3pm and the first Sunday of every month.

How to get there:

From Plaça Espanya head down Avinguda Maria Cristina and you will see the museum straight away. Continue up via the escalators or, if you’re feeling particularly fit, take the stairs.

  • Metro: L1, L3 (Plaça Espanya)
  • Bus: 150, 13, 55
  • FGC: L8, S33, S4, S8, R5, R50, R6, R60
  • Runner Bean Tours Barcelona - BOOK NOW

Photographs by Dena Flows and MNAC collection

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Filed Under: Art & museums

MOST RECENT REVIEWS OF RUNNER BEAN TOURS BARCELONA

RUNNER BEAN TOURS - Barcelona Private Tours & Free Walking Tours
RUNNER BEAN TOURS - Barcelona Private Tours & Free Walking Tours
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Maria Fonseca
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21:04 31 Dec 20
Was a pleasant experience to have Lisa as tour guide. Full of details her explanation and very focus on what she was saying. A touch of british humour was very much appreciated ;) Thank you
Brigitte Gneissl
Brigitte Gneissl
12:47 09 Dec 20
I booked the group tour for the Gothic quarter but obviously due to the current circumstances I was the only one on the tour. Hence, my fantastic tour guide Lisa gave me a private tour and it was super interesting. I... really learned a lot and it's a great way of discovering Barcelona. Highly recommended for anyone who comes to BCN! It's so important to also learn about the history and culture. A fantastic tour. Greetings to Lisa.read more
Satyajeet Sarang
Satyajeet Sarang
15:56 17 Oct 20
We did the Gothic Quarter tour with Miguel. We were lucky that the other party on the tour had cancelled so we had a private tour!! Miguel was extremely knowledgable and gave us lot of detail and information on each... place and also bits and pieces of the in-between that tied the places together into a whole story! Miguel spent a good amount of time with us and also gave us good local tips for food, shops and such. We would highly recommend Runner Bean Tours!!read more
Lisa Gill
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11:17 14 Oct 20
We had a fantastic tour led by Lisa and due to COVID it was just the three of us. We've been to Barcelona many times and so it was wonderful to learn more about the history of the city and the buildings we love so much.... Lisa was extremely friendly and knowledgeable. Highly recommended!read more
rhonda caplan
rhonda caplan
03:03 13 Oct 20
We were so impressed with our tour. It was fun, and extremely informative. They go by donation and they are worth every penny .My friend and I have been on tours in a lot of cities and this tour ranked amongst our... favorite. We were encouraged to ask questions, and if I ever have an opportunity I would take as many tours from them as they offer. Thank you 😊 💙read more
Aoife Leddy
Aoife Leddy
13:56 12 Oct 20
We had a very short time in Barcelona so to make the most of the time we had, we decided to do a walking tour. I'm so glad we chose Runner Bean Tours. We did the Antoni Gaudí tour with Lisa and thoroughly enjoyed it.... Even our children were engaged throughout thanks to Lisa's gift for storytelling and bringing you on a journey with her tour. Given the current climate in Spain with few foreign tourists visiting, we were in a unique position to enjoy an almost private tour in a very quiet city...an experience we will probably never have the opportunity to have ever again. We enjoyed the Gaudí tour so much that we booked the Gothic tour the very next day and were lucky enough to have Lisa as a guide once more. Again, a wonderful tour delivered in an engaging and really entertaining way. Lisa's knowledge of the history of Barcelona shines through and her passion for this wonderful city is absolutely contagious. Highly recommended for the whole family ♥️👌read more
Sophie Nadal
Sophie Nadal
13:46 08 Sep 20
I really appreciated the visit with Ali, who payed attention to us, asking if we add any questions regularly. She loved introducing the city to us and we can feel it, it was a real pleasure. I recommend it !
Elizabeth Skelton
Elizabeth Skelton
14:14 03 Sep 20
We had an awesome time on the Barcelona gothic quarter tour with Miguel! Miguel was an amazing guide. He was full of interesting information, and his passion and love for the city and his job made the tour extra... enjoyable. He also gave us lots of recommendations for places to eat and drink in the city, and even helped us mark them on google maps. He also took some great pictures for us. I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend runner bean tours. Thank you Miguel for giving us such an insightful experience!read more
Katie Mckitting
Katie Mckitting
17:06 01 Sep 20
We have done a lot of walking tours all over the world and this was by far our favourite. Miguel was very knowledgeable and funny and made this an enjoyable experience. It is clear that Miguel loves what he does and... made sure that we had fun too. There were only 2 others on the tour with us and he made sure we were safe and distanced and everyone wore their masks to make sure we all felt safe and comfortable. I 100% recommend doing this tour - especially if with Miguel if possible! Gracias for a lovely few hours in Barca!! :)read more
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Comments

  1. Jerry Endres says

    October 1, 2018 at 8:27 pm

    We will be in Barcelona on April 22-24th 2019
    We have been there before.
    are there any events during this time?

    Reply
    • runnerbeantours says

      October 1, 2018 at 8:39 pm

      Sant Jordi’s Day is on the 23rd and it is a lovely day to be in Barcelona. You can keep an eye on our post of what to do in Barcelona in April to see what events will be happening next year. The post is for the 2018 events but we will update it in 2019.

      Reply

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