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Madrid Art Museums, “the Barcelona connection”

Ramón Casas - Garrote vil (1894)

Gorka Regidor Leave a Comment

Barcelona and Madrid have shared quite a long history together. It is no surprise then that the ghost of Barcelona keeps appearing in the main Art Museum of the Spanish capital as well as the street Art galleries in Madrid. Whenever I travel there I can’t help spending most of my time revisiting those wonderful museums. Yes, the food and the nightlife are great there but the pleasure of being transported once again by Picasso’s Gernika or the great works of Goya is something that leaves me very little time for anything else. This is a story of 5 paintings in Madrid… and their Barcelona connection.

Ramón Casas, “Garrote vil” (1894)

Ramón Casas - Garrote vil (1894) Museo Reina Sofía
Ramón Casas, “Garrote vil” (1894) Museo Reina Sofía

It is a cold January morning in Barcelona and thousands are gathering around a central scene. We see police on horses, members of a religious confraternity wearing pointed hoods and a platform where everything is happening. Public executions were a rare sight in the city in those days. 16 years had passed since the last one so Barcelona’s citizens weren’t going to miss it. The victim is a young man called Isidre Mompart. His crime? Murdering 2 children in cold blood during a burglary.

The Catalan artist Ramon Casas was among the crowd that day. As was the custom at the time, the body was left for public viewing until dusk. Casas took this opportunity to create some sketches that he would later use to create his masterpiece. The solemnity of such an event breathes through every single inch of the painting. The exact location of the scene is now a public school in Barcelona and I can’t help but wonder how many of the pupils know about the horrors that happened just outside their window.

Pablo Ruíz Picasso, “The Harvesters” (1907)

Pablo Picasso - The Harvesters (1907) Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza
Pablo Ruíz Picasso, “The Harvesters” (1907) Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

Picasso will always have a connection with Barcelona. Here it is when, at the age of 14, he moved with his family and started experimenting with oils, watercolours and life. He frequented the bohemian corners of the city, like the café Els 4 Gats, and he experienced the Barcelona of the lower classes, like in his portrait of the prostitutes at Avinyó street. But he also enjoyed the tranquillity of the Catalan countryside, spending some time in towns like Horta de Sant Joan and Gósol.

The harvesters is a remembrance of his time in Gósol in 1906. A group of peasants work laboriously in the Catalan Pyrenees rushing to collect the wheat. Picasso conceived this painting as a counterpoint to Les Demoiselles d’Avignon. The former represents rural life, harmony and freedom. The latter, the enclosed and violent space of a modern urban city.

Salvador Dalí, “The great masturbator” (1929)

Salvador Dalí - The great masturbator (1929) Museo Reina Sofía
Salvador Dalí, “The great masturbator” (1929) Museo Reina Sofía

In one of the four corners of Plaça Reial there is a restaurant with a very confusing sign above the door: Museo Pedagógico de Ciencias Naturales (Pedagogical Museum of Natural Science). It is the only clue telling us that at this same spot there used to be a taxidermist shop. The business closed down in 1991 but for almost 70 years it was one of the main attractions on this side of the city.

Children used to gather to watch the shop’s famous family of stuffed gorillas while Joan Miró and Salvador Dalí were both enchanted by its dreamy presence. Tigers, dogs and all types of birds filled the place with a surreal atmosphere that the Catalan artists couldn’t resist. Dalí had the most unusual requests. Once, he purchased a stuffed baby rhino and photographed himself riding it on the square outside. On another occasion, he ordered the impossible: 100,000 stuffed ants. Maybe for his personal collection or maybe as an inspiration for his paintings, like this one: The Great Masturbator, one of his most striking works.

Jean Ranc, “Portrait of Philip V” (1723)

Portrait of Philip V (1723 - Jean Ranc) Museo Nacional del Prado
“Portrait of Philip V” (1723 – Jean Ranc) Museo Nacional del Prado

Proud, powerful, arrogant… These are just some of the words that come to my mind trying to describe the man portrayed here. For better or worse, Philip V will always be connected to the history of Barcelona. It was under his reign and his troops that the city fell in 1714 ending the War of Spanish Succession. The consequences of that defeat are still remembered 300 years later as if his ghost and the thousands who perished, never left.

José Moreno Carbonero, “Prince Carlos de Viana” (1881)

Prince Carlos de Viana (1881 - José Moreno Carbonero) Museo Nacional del Prado
“Prince Carlos de Viana” (1881 – José Moreno Carbonero) Museo Nacional del Prado

If there is a universal image of the charming prince, this is it. A tall skinny figure with a long and pointed nose, fair skin, bowl haircut and melancholic expression. Except that this is not the happy prince of the fairytales. A lover of art and music, Carlos de Viana will always be remembered in history as “The Prince of Viana” but he could have also been king. As the eldest son of John II, King of Aragon, his rights to the throne were more than obvious.

His story is almost a Cinderella one. All the ingredients are there: An evil stepmother, a jealous step-brother and the chance of being a king for a day. That day was the 12th of March 1461 when he triumphantly entered Barcelona to be recognised as the future King of Aragon. The dream didn’t last long as barely 7 months later, Carlos died in the Royal Palace. Shortly after, his step-mother arrived in Barcelona with her son and they visited the Crypt of Saint Eulalia where Carlos body lay. She paid her respects and kissed the coffin. Her son did not. Maybe he felt he didn’t have to. After all, he was about to become Ferdinand “The Catholic”, Maquiavelo’s perfect prince and a very different one from the fairytales.

[soliloquy id=”7045″]

If you are into learning about the history of the places you visit and also appreciate Art, you would probably enjoy some of the walking tours we offer in Barcelona.

Photographs by the collections of Museo Reina Sofía, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza and Museo nacional del Prado

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MOST RECENT REVIEWS OF RUNNER BEAN TOURS BARCELONA

RUNNER BEAN TOURS - Barcelona Private Tours & Free Walking Tours
RUNNER BEAN TOURS - Barcelona Private Tours & Free Walking Tours
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Ben Duvall
Ben Duvall
16:55 11 May 22
We had a wonderful tour of the Gothic Quarter led by Ann-Marie. She was very knowledgeable and engaging. This tour was ideal way to start our first visit to Barcelona. I can't recommend this tour enough.
Natalie B
Natalie B
14:43 12 Apr 22
Lisa was spectacular. She was very knowledgeable, kind and she went at a great pace. She gave us so much information that helped us understand the history of Catalonia but she went further to help us connect to the... culture of Catalonia today. Lisa took the time to answer questions and gave us great tips to make the most of our trip. She also has great recommendations for restaurants, places to see and how to get around. The tour was great and Lisa was really terrific.read more
Lorraine Ogilby
Lorraine Ogilby
16:24 31 Mar 22
We took a 2 1/2 hour walking tour of the Gothic quarter with Anne-Marie from Runner Bean tours. She was incredibly knowledgeable and obviously passionate about both the city where she lives and the history! Full of... information and details about every site we visited and we heard so much that’s not included in any other trip. Very interactive with the group and put every single person at ease. She was an absolute mine of local information and recommendations at the end - which we personally used for meals and other sites to visit. These guys work on a donation system and be prepared to give them every euro that you feel they are worth. We took two of their tours and they were the highlight of our trip to Barcelona!!read more
W L
W L
08:57 30 Mar 22
I showed up on an earlier day for my city tour and Lisa was nice enough to let me join anyway. Her presentation was both enlightening and fun. She had personal stories and on the spot observations to share which made it... feel fresh. Her diction was very easy to understand and she was pleasant to listen to. Believe me I have been on some tours where the guides had annoying pet phrases like 'alright?' 'um' etc.. that can be tiresome to listen to for 2.5 hours. Lisa took personal interest in her guests and made the effort to talk to us individually whenever possible. Her food suggestions were great. I highly recommend going on her tour!read more
Helena Loremikan
Helena Loremikan
23:40 22 Feb 22
I went on both the Gothic quarter tour and the Gaudi tour and both of them were brilliant. Miguel was a brilliant guide and is so funny yet so informative. My friends and I enjoyed our tour so much we came back the very... next day. I would highly recommend booking a walking tour with them you would not regret it at all!read more
Sue Pupo
Sue Pupo
18:21 03 Dec 21
We had a very informative, well researched and extremely interesting tour with Miguel today of Runner Bean Tours. He pointed out interesting facts we would never discovered on our own, not to mention little known... facts. It was highly informative. Do yourself a favor, and sign up for one of the tours. We have been on two now, and we’ll worth the time! You will enjoy Miguel, a very personable person and a great guide. He will make you fall in love with Barcelona.read more
Maria Fonseca
Maria Fonseca
21:04 31 Dec 20
Was a pleasant experience to have Lisa as tour guide.Full of details her explanation and very focus on what she was saying.A touch of british humour was very much appreciated ;)Thank you
Brigitte Gneissl
Brigitte Gneissl
12:47 09 Dec 20
I booked the group tour for the Gothic quarter but obviously due to the current circumstances I was the only one on the tour. Hence, my fantastic tour guide Lisa gave me a private tour and it was super interesting. I... really learned a lot and it's a great way of discovering Barcelona. Highly recommended for anyone who comes to BCN! It's so important to also learn about the history and culture. A fantastic tour. Greetings to Lisa.read more
Satyajeet Sarang
Satyajeet Sarang
15:56 17 Oct 20
We did the Gothic Quarter tour with Miguel. We were lucky that the other party on the tour had cancelled so we had a private tour!! Miguel was extremely knowledgable and gave us lot of detail and information on each... place and also bits and pieces of the in-between that tied the places together into a whole story!Miguel spent a good amount of time with us and also gave us good local tips for food, shops and such.We would highly recommend Runner Bean Tours!!read more
Lisa Gill
Lisa Gill
11:17 14 Oct 20
We had a fantastic tour led by Lisa and due to COVID it was just the three of us. We've been to Barcelona many times and so it was wonderful to learn more about the history of the city and the buildings we love so much.... Lisa was extremely friendly and knowledgeable. Highly recommended!read more
rhonda caplan
rhonda caplan
03:03 13 Oct 20
We were so impressed with our tour. It was fun, and extremely informative. They go by donation and they are worth every penny .My friend and I have been on tours in a lot of cities and this tour ranked amongst our... favorite. We were encouraged to ask questions, and if I ever have an opportunity I would take as many tours from them as they offer. Thank you 😊 💙read more
Aoife Leddy
Aoife Leddy
13:56 12 Oct 20
We had a very short time in Barcelona so to make the most of the time we had, we decided to do a walking tour. I'm so glad we chose Runner Bean Tours. We did the Antoni Gaudí tour with Lisa and thoroughly enjoyed it.... Even our children were engaged throughout thanks to Lisa's gift for storytelling and bringing you on a journey with her tour. Given the current climate in Spain with few foreign tourists visiting, we were in a unique position to enjoy an almost private tour in a very quiet city...an experience we will probably never have the opportunity to have ever again. We enjoyed the Gaudí tour so much that we booked the Gothic tour the very next day and were lucky enough to have Lisa as a guide once more. Again, a wonderful tour delivered in an engaging and really entertaining way. Lisa's knowledge of the history of Barcelona shines through and her passion for this wonderful city is absolutely contagious. Highly recommended for the whole family ♥️👌read more
Sophie Nadal
Sophie Nadal
13:46 08 Sep 20
I really appreciated the visit with Ali, who payed attention to us, asking if we add any questions regularly. She loved introducing the city to us and we can feel it, it was a real pleasure. I recommend it !
Elizabeth Skelton
Elizabeth Skelton
14:14 03 Sep 20
We had an awesome time on the Barcelona gothic quarter tour with Miguel! Miguel was an amazing guide. He was full of interesting information, and his passion and love for the city and his job made the tour extra... enjoyable. He also gave us lots of recommendations for places to eat and drink in the city, and even helped us mark them on google maps. He also took some great pictures for us. I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend runner bean tours. Thank you Miguel for giving us such an insightful experience!read more
Katie Mckitting
Katie Mckitting
17:06 01 Sep 20
We have done a lot of walking tours all over the world and this was by far our favourite. Miguel was very knowledgeable and funny and made this an enjoyable experience. It is clear that Miguel loves what he does and... made sure that we had fun too. There were only 2 others on the tour with us and he made sure we were safe and distanced and everyone wore their masks to make sure we all felt safe and comfortable. I 100% recommend doing this tour - especially if with Miguel if possible! Gracias for a lovely few hours in Barca!! :)read more
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🐲🌹 Happy Sant Jordi's Day everyone!!! 🎟 🐲🌹 Happy Sant Jordi's Day everyone!!! 

🎟️ To celebrate this special day, we are giving away 2 tickets to visit Park Güell to the first person who tells us where you can find the 6 Saint George's representations below. Tickets are for Monday, April 25th, at 1pm.

❓Clue: today is one of the rare opportunities when you can visit this building... and for free too.

#santjordi2022 #parkguelltickets #santjordi #saintgeorge #barcelonatraditions #santjordi2022🌹🐲 #thisisbarcelona #barcelonalovers #barcelona #barcelonacity #nextstopbarcelona #barcelonatrip #barcelonatodo #bcnlovers #visitbarcelona #ig_barcelona #bestcitybreaks #barcelonalife #barcelonastravel #barcelonaexperience #barcelonatips #discoverbarcelona
Challenge for FREE Park Güell tickets on Prince's Challenge for FREE Park Güell tickets on Prince's death anniversary!

🎸 In 1992, Prince visited Barcelona for a photo session for his album "Come". Photographer Terry Gydesen took some wonderful images at a couple of iconic buildings in the city.

Here is our challenge. 

🎟️🆓 We have free tickets to Park Güell worth €40 for the first person who tells us which are the buildings that appear in the photographs. It is 4 tickets to visit the park tomorrow (April 22nd) at 12:30pm.

⏳⏳⏳ Time is kicking 😉

Prince (7th June 1958 - 21st April 2016)
Photography by Terry Gydesen

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We almost forgot... . . . . . . . . . . . . #runne We almost forgot...
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Today is the 48th anniversary of the execution of Today is the 48th anniversary of the execution of Salvador Puig i Antich and Heinz Chez. Never forget 😢
🍽️ Today we are enjoying traditional Catalan 🍽️ Today we are enjoying traditional Catalan food at Can Culleretes.

1️⃣7️⃣8️⃣6️⃣ Founded in 1786 and located in the Gothic Quarter, this is the oldest restaurant in Barcelona and the second oldest in Spain. 

😋 A real local business with 3 generations of the same family offering great food at affordable prices.

💪 It was lovely to see it was still running and full of customers after the hard times of the pandemic 😄
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Today is Santa Eulàlia, patron saint of Barcelona Today is Santa Eulàlia, patron saint of Barcelona ✖️🎑. This is a weekend full of activities and things to do in the city, specially for the little ones 🎉🎈
Photo: Santa Eulàlia's original statue at Plaça del Pedró (1874).
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Raluy Circus, a classic thing to do in Barcelona i Raluy Circus, a classic thing to do in Barcelona in wintertime 🎪🤹🤡
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#circraluy #circhistoricraluy #circus #barcelonacircus #traditionalcircus #noanimals
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This big eye has seen millions of people coming an This big eye has seen millions of people coming and leaving Barcelona since 1929. Do you know where it is? 👁️🕵️‍♂️
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The pandemic has been a challenging time for every The pandemic has been a challenging time for everyone but we have always been committed to the safety of our customers. 

The Safe Travels stamp by the World Travel Tourism Council has just been awarded to Runner Bean Tours. This stamp was created for travellers to recognise destinations and businesses around the world which have adopted the SafeTravels health and hygiene global standardised protocols.

Becoming who we are is largely due to the wonderful customers who supported our local company over the years. This stamp is just our responsibility and commitment to you.
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We want to wish everyone a merry merry Christmas a We want to wish everyone a merry merry Christmas and a wonderful 2022! 🎄🎁🎅
Hope to see you all soon in Barcelona 😄
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Credit: Three kings artwork by flickr.com/photos/ansesgob
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Things that happen in Barcelona when you step out Things that happen in Barcelona when you step out of your house 😉
The Phoenix of Poblenou is a recent addition to the Giants & Beasts tradition but also a very beloved one 🪶🔥
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We just welcomed this lovely group of friends who We just welcomed this lovely group of friends who took a private tour with Dani 👍. Have you ever been to this spot? 🏛️🐲
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